Nueva Entrada

There are about 12 of these giant Olmec heads at the Museo Antropologica here. They're unbelievably old, about 1500 BC. They have a great aura. I went to the museum this morning and saw the heads and also a lot of other pre-Columbian figures. They figures are all about heads and eyes and lips -- these people were fascinated with faces, and maybe, it follows, with individuals? I liked the emphasis, anyway.

I got the audio tour because all the signs were in Spanish. The audio commentary was in very Spanish-accented English. I didn't understand a lot of it, the same as I wouldn't have followed the Spanish. But I was happy there, staring at larval stone faces, observing their geometrically exact loincloths, learning that closed eyes and an open mouth on a woman figure meant she had died in childbirth wondering why they made their hatchet heads so smooth and shiny, like jewelry.

The giftshop was also a highlight.